So that TikTok influencer swears by a new wrinkle patch? We found out what’s real and what’s not.

We’ve all fallen victim to viral beauty treatments that claim to tap the fountain of youth. Maybe we’re told this cream will reduce laugh lines, or this serum will brighten skin. We’ve quieted our doubts and given it a try—to varying degrees of success.

But how do you know if something really does the trick? Maybe they’re not miracle workers, but will they do anything? Here, three NoVA experts—dermatologist Isabela Jones of Virginia Square Dermatology, master aesthetician Sarah Akram of her namesake skincare studio, and plastic surgeon Munique Maia of Maia Plastic Surgery—weigh in on whether the latest products popping up on our social media feeds only go skin deep.

Love them or hate them, the Kardashian clan has clout. So when Khloé K. proclaimed on Instagram that her tourmaline-stone facial roller was the “magic wand of beauty,” ears perked up. The rollers come in various stones, such as jade and amethyst; this rose-quartz iteration appears to promote suppleness, soothe and calm skin, and ease muscle tension. And, in general, our experts agree that these refrigerated rollers aid in lymphatic drainage and provide a deeper massage to help with swelling, at least on a short-term basis.

“If I were to choose one, I’d probably use rose quartz,” says Akram. “It stays cool and keeps its temperature better than the other stones.” That cooling effect can help alleviate puffiness, and younger people who are new to skincare or don’t need more advanced treatments—folks in their teens or 20s—could find some use in the temporary results.

“Many models will use this tool to de-puff before an event or photo shoot,” adds Maia. “They only need to have glowing skin for a brief amount of time.”

Although Jones also believes the product is fine for those who enjoy the feeling or find that it helps with morning swelling—particularly around the eyes—she does warn that those with active acne or rosacea should avoid facial rollers. “The friction in the area can contribute to more acne.” An alternative: Apply an equal amount of pressure using just your clean hands. “If you have a cream, make a similar upward and outward stroke to release swelling and increase blood flow,” she advises.

These babies allegedly reduce wrinkles on your forehead, between the eyes, and around the corners of your mouth. The theory: Lines and wrinkles stem from repetitive motion, and these stickers prevent you from moving the area where you put them. You must wear them for a minimum of three hours, ideally overnight, for “results.”

“Unless you’re wearing these during the day, this isn’t going to help with lines of motion that we develop over time,” cautions Jones. Perhaps more beneficial would be active ingredients on the stickers, such as peptides, which are placed on your skin overnight. (Unless noted specifically, “Frownies” do not include active ingredients.)

Once again, there’s a caveat. “You can get the same result from applying your skincare at night,” says Jones. “I don’t think you need to sleep with a sticker over the area.” Instead, she suggests a regular, preventive skincare routine: a vitamin C serum, sunscreen, retinol, and light exfoliation.

Maia agrees that consistency is key: “[Skincare] isn’t one-time only,” she says. “That’s what most people want: ‘Put a sticker there, and my lines will go away.’ That doesn’t happen. We have Botox for that.” While many people are still hesitant about Botox, it has been FDA-approved since the 1980s and is widely studied—but products like wrinkle stickers aren’t.

“What I find interesting is, I see many first-time Botox patients try it and then keep coming back every three months,” adds Maia. “But there’s never really magic you can do.”

That said, stickers could be a temporary remedy for someone who’s not quite ready for Botox or injectables, notes Akram: “Classic Hollywood icons used to do [things like this] all the time. But nowadays, we have so much more at our disposal.” Akram prefers the Electro-Sonic DF Mobile for her personal at-home routine: The low-frequency sonophoresis and iontophoresis device helps with skincare products’ efficacy by helping ingredients like peptides penetrate more deeply into the skin.

Gua sha is an ancient Chinese healing method that involves scraping your skin with a massage tool to improve circulation and lymphatic drainage and provide contouring effects. Like the rollers, they come in various stones: Wildling, for example, sells a face-and-body set made of bian, a stone created when a meteor struck a mountain in China. It’s an amalgamation of 40-plus minerals aiding in human health—or so Wildling says. Regardless of the particular stone, it requires some dedication to do accurately. (A YouTube video instructs you to tilt the stone to 15 degrees and “add a dash of compassion and self-love.”)

“It sounds very time-consuming,” says Jones, noting that you’d need to do this daily in the beginning and then two or three times a week after that. “Realistically, for someone who is trying to maximize what they’re doing, I don’t see how it fits into a busy person’s routine.”

Akram suggests a different device—a cryo-stick for its versatility and efficacy. The device must be refrigerated; liquid nitrogen inside keeps it chilled. “When you’re massaging it over the skin, not only are you contouring, but you’re also helping to improve circulation and de-puffing. You’re doing three things in one.” Plus, she says, it feels amazing—particularly if you suffer from migraines. “It’s relaxing and soothing to the skin.”

Don’t want to spend your money on a device? Maia has an at-home hack: Put a spoon in the fridge, and, once it’s cold, massage it on your face. It, too, will help with short-term contouring, de-puffing, and lymphatic drainage.

Of all the products we asked our experts about, Jones was most intrigued by this one. The FDA-cleared blue-level LED light and T-Sonic pulsation device is touted for destroying acne-causing bacteria—in 30 seconds. “Blue light has good scientific evidence for its effectiveness,” she says. “It emits 415 nanometers [of wavelengths] that get absorbed by the bacteria in the pimple. Pulsations probably also help break up the bacteria.” She believes it’s more useful as a spot treatment to reduce inflammation. “I wouldn’t suggest this as a primary way of treating acne—it’s not enough to prevent pimples.” An acne-fighting regimen would still be necessary, but if you get an occasional blemish, this could be useful.

Well, maybe: Jones notes that the product study included only 20 participants. (A typical randomized control trial should have at least 100 patients.)

OK, so what does Akram have to say? While she agrees that blue LED light can be effective, she has a “miracle worker” in her arsenal for those suffering from acne: the P50 1970 exfoliating lotion by Biologique-Recherche. “It’s a nonprescription product, but clients have told me they dropped their prescription after using it.” Given the choice between the wand and the lotion, she’d recommend the latter—or even a device that tackles multiple skin conditions.

“When someone has acne, it’s not the only problem they have,” she says. “Usually they have discoloration, pitting, and old acne scars. There are handheld devices that you can change out with red or amber light to target other issues.”

This device received a fair amount of skepticism: It claims to buff away sun spots, acne scars, age spots, and fine lines. “It’s not going to do that,” says Jones. “I actually don’t hate it, though; it’s just a fancy way of exfoliating.” Sure, if you want your skin to look temporarily more glowy, this could do the trick by exfoliating the stratum corneum, or the top layer of the skin.

Does she think there are more effective and permanent treatments that actually do what this device says it does? Yes. “You need skincare ingredients that are diving deep down, [like] true microneedling, where the needles pierce the skin’s second layer, or at-home alpha hydroxy acid.”

Akram has an opposite reaction to the machine. “Would you cut your own hair?” she asks. “Certain things should be left to the professionals. I’ve been doing this for 20 years, and I wouldn’t do my own microdermabrasion.” She questions whether you’d apply the right pressure or stroke in the right direction.

Maia agrees: “An aesthetician will evaluate the skin and can treat it effectively without overdoing it or creating more damage.” She’s also hesitant about patients incorporating treatments like this on their own, without the guidance of a professional, because of some of the at-home treatments she’s witnessed. Take that time a patient came in with a burn following a DIY glycolic peel. She likens it to destroying a Picasso.

If you do want to exfoliate, both Akram and Jones prefer chemical exfoliation (acids like AHA or BHA) to physical (microbeads, which can be harsh). Akram suggests picking up Bluemercury’s M-61 glycolic acid exfoliating pads. Jones notes that glycolic acid runs between 10 and 30 percent; the former is for all skin types, while the higher concentration is better for oily, acne-prone skin. “If someone is [using this] on a semiregular basis, it’ll give them the glow they want,” she says. “It also helps with collagen stimulation, acne, and sun spots, much more than microdermabrasion.”

This story originally appeared in the April issue of Northern Virginia magazine. Subscribe for more stories like this.

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